Oaxaca: Pueblos Mancomunados

Last weekend Darcie and I went on a fabulous two-day hike in the local mountains.  The hike was organized through our language school which takes a lot of legwork out going on a trip in the Sierra Norte such as getting to the starting point, organizing the mandatory guide and setting up the various stops along the way.  You can do it pretty much without all this but then you would be missing out.

The hike for us started at Cuajimoloyas which we were told literally translated to “congealed mole in the pot” from Zapotec to English. Mole (pronounced Moh Leh and rhymes with the well-known bull fighter’s epithet Ole!) is sauce or gravy for the uninitiated made with nuts and herbs and spices and sometimes chocolate.  The recipes can be simple or highly complex.  How one comes to name ones village after the fiesta leftovers is beyond me since one has to drink an awful lot of pulque before inebriation kicks in. 

Anyway, I digress, the village is located at 3200m above sea level or roughly 10,500ft.  A bit of a lung buster even if you have been at 5200ft for a time already (the elevation of Oaxaca mas o menos).  To make sure we weren’t panty waists our intrepid leader, Toby, had us huff up the nearby peak to enjoy the view.  Quickly followed by lunch back down in the village (very yummy) and then, after leaving one member behind on her own recognizance (she decided the distance and altitude would be too much), we hot footed it down the trail to our next village, La Tuvi which was twelve miles hence.

I think it is safe to say that none of the led had any idea how amazingly beautiful the Sierra Norte is.The mountains roll and sweep, dipping into shady valleys and lifting up to narrow ridges glowing in the sun.  The flora in many ways is similar to Northern California, pines, bay-laurel, oaks, manzanita, madrone, lupines… But then there are forests where every tree has one or more epiphytic colony clinging and flowering profusely.  There were multiple varieties of orchid, many in bloom.  I saw at least four different types of salvia blooming and of course there were numerous varieties of cactus to remind you that while it looked and felt like Northern California you were a long way from home Toto.

This first day started off with a gentle down grade/rolling terrain through dappled sunlight on a combination of fire roads and single tracks.  I want to come back so I can ride these trails on a mountain bike – perfectly legal, no rangers or outraged hikers or equestrians and for the most part tranquil solitude.  We walked by some agaves in full bloom which were amazing, came across a trout farm in the middle of a clearing, vistas for daze, flowers in profusion, abandoned adobe house from a century or more ago and finally after four hours or so a steep three or so mile decent down into a narrow valley with another trout farm, some friendly dogs and a chance for some snacks and a refreshing drink (of water)

The final couple of miles were uphill climbing up to about 8500ft to La Tuvi where we stayed in some really nice cabins terraced into the hillside for a spectacular view of the sunset/sunrise.  The meal was filling, tasty and washed down with some beer and the local mezcal.

The following day after a hearty breakfast and copious cups of coffee and some stretching we sauntered off back down into the valley and then along a rambling, winding, lifting trail, passing corn fields being harvested, a man plowing using two oxen and a wood plow, several streams the water of which was cold and deliciously refreshing (it has been a week and no adverse effects yet), several altars and not a soul in sight except for our fellow hikers.  I frequently dropped behind to enjoy the solitude.

We reached our final village, Lachatao at about 4pm after a five and a bit hour hike with several breaks in between.  The distance was about 6 miles but with more up and down, less shade and considerable warmth.  We ate another really tasty meal, hopped into our waiting minivan and after an hour and a half driving through the lovely sunset light arrived stiff and perhaps a little foot sore back in Oaxaca.

If you are ever in Oaxaca and want an off the normal tourist path adventure this is a must.  We spent 1250 pesos for the trip per person including four meals, a good room, guides and a great time.  We went through our school I.C.O. (http://www.icomexico.com) and they would be happy to take strangers off the street or a trip can be arranged directly with http://www.sierranorte.org.mx/